pulsar toner transfer paper

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Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Keep a minimum of 10 mil between traces. Letter Size (8-1/2" x 11") Have a look, the mod is fully reversible! I learned mostly from examples, by looking at lots A most powerful graphics & text capability. I looked at the Swingline GBC Fusion 1100L 9-Inch Laminator it has a strait path and so may work. To ensure a good transfer, repeat this once more for each direction. Leads are bendable, so being off by a little won't make Follow all safety precautions. Rock the tray around gently or use a sponge or brush to wipe the solution over the board. Take your copper-clad board and cut it down to size. Imagine into one of trays. It's always Use more space The least expensive drilling option is to use a Dremel/Craftsman rotary tool and a can eat right through tiny traces. boards will probably break your average paper cutter. Be careful not to overheat the part (feel it)! Since you have only one layer, you just want with clamps if possible. Get the same high quality images as expensive "send-out" commercially made transfers at a fraction of the cost, and do it in your shop in under 10 minutes. Fill one of the trays with half an inch or so of cold water and have it ready. I observed this as a pattern on a tinned board). You are just removing any dextrin residue. The HeatSeal H212 is still available on Overstock.com and other places. To do this: Turn off everything except Top, Pads, Vias and click OK. Place the board in an electric skillet, then turn it up to 350 degrees F. Wait a few minutes for the solder to reflow, turn off the heat when its done, allow to cool. Hack a Day article and video, which served as my main reference. After 10 minutes the Dextrin will dissolve and cause the paper to come off cleanly, or even float off without any force, leaving perfect traces behind. Toner images print perfectly to the transfer paper because the printer thinks it is a regular soft sheet of paper, however, on one side of the paper is a barrier coating called Dextrin that prevents the toner from touching the fibers of the paper. Someone has recommended printing a rectangle around the outside of your design that will help hold the transfer paper in place while laminating (Im sorry I have forgotten where I read this). X on it with a pencil, and put it in the manual feed tray with the X facing up. Ensure there are no right or acute angles. copper boards should be the same size or slightly larger than the piece of transfer After a few attempts, I've PCB drill bits are Inspect with a magnifier to make sure you got them all. dispose of it properly, and do not pour it down the drain. If your laminator is too hot then use less passes. Print out a placement diagram with part values, and the Bill of Materials. Let the bit do the work. You should wear goggles and secure the base of the drill press to your work surface Wait a couple minutes, and you'll see the edges of the paper coming off. (Gloves still on so no fingerprints). If using a ground plane or copper pour, make sure to check for sharp edges or other tight areas that might Then follow When laying out traces, start with a 25 mil grid, then drop down to 10 or 5 mil if necessary. Michael, Give it a tug The printed image should, Pulsar's products are definitely worth the money, and they'll Printing from pcb is best accomplished by exporting to PostScript, then I used blue painters tape or masking tape. Drilling is straightforward: hold the board perfectly still with one hand and I do not think that works as well as that can burnish the surface and make it harder for the toner to stick! 8 or 6 mil traces will probably work, but less than 10 is pushing it. Take the plain paper image and make sure it was printed at the correct scale. You can let go as soon as the laminator grabs it. (copper side up, toner side down) and put the board and paper into the laminator, The board should Larger have the size written in millimeters. (LogOut/ Have two pieces of masking tape (or blue tape) cut to the length and width of the mask. The You should see the traces on the board turn from copper to silver very quickly. This often leads to broken or completely http://www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13P-Professional-Laminator-Document/dp/B0012UEQ5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372796999&sr=8-1&keywords=apache+AL13P. I use etchant I made with Muriatic (pool) Acid and hydrogen peroxide, with a bubbling line attached to my air compressor (with a regulator). Staples glossy photo paper it has a plastic layer that sticks to the copper. Allow to cool and peel off the outer film layer. Clean with alcohol and/or a green scrubby pad, rinse, dry (use gloves). (Any container made of polypropylene or polyethylene If you've got Liquid Tin, use it. Apply solder paste with a hypodermic (except for fine pin chips), just a dot in each location. The image should be on the light blue side of the paper. Pour the acid into the tray SECOND, SLOWLY. Cut the bottom and one side edge of the mask a short distance from the image, say 1/8 of an inch. The board and paper are then submerged in a tray of water and the Dextrin coating begins to dissolve. If there are any bits of toner stuck to the paper, or floating in the water, Take the board out of the water and pat it dry. This is the time to make sure both sides are aligned perfectly with the edges of the PCB. Look for the initials "PP" or "PE" on the bottom of the container.) I have modded the Apache AL13P to do single pass, baking parchment transfers at only 300F settingno burnt tape, no smoking! Put some components on it If you have to make a T joint, round out the right angles like this: Try to position the centers of through-hole components on 100-mil points to keep things simple. Here are some basic tips I think you should keep in mind: If using pcb, you should export your layout to PostScript. I use some extra mailing labels for this. paper cutter, tin snips, or strong kitchen shears. Craftsman drill press base. I found that out the hard way.) The laser toner is made of plastic, which when laminated to the copper PCB creates the acid-resist mask. the etching process, picking the board up and checking it if necessary. You better be wearing gloves! Remove any rosin flux with alcohol, a fine brush & paper towel. If electronics is your hobby, chances are, you've got some money to burn. The foil likes to curl up, it's kind of tricky to work with. Dont get hasty! X-On Electronics Pvt Ltd. Services. This is normal as laser printers do not always print perfectly evenly. This works very well, however the blue paper is so opaque/dark that it is very difficult to align double sided boards. potentially fuse together during transfer, etching, or soldering. Get one of the paint trays and put a plastic liner in it. Just open it in Gimp and choose Tools, Transform Tools, Flip. The fully, since they cover this topic in more detail than I will. Make sure the board is fully rinsed, and dry it. Otherwise if you have a solder stencil youre golden, Place any SMT parts using tweezers, using your magnifier light, and your best reading glasses (as needed). holes. Its much more reliable! Note that this tutorial is for single-sided boards only, but it's possible Print out your PCB design on a sheet of plain paper using your laser printer (only a laser printer will work). The laminator should be on and hot. controlling the flow of the acid, you can pull it away easily if a violent reaction occurs. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. This version had inputs for all the chip functions, with status LEDs for each. Try not to touch the copper with your fingers, and handle it by the edges only. This special foil goes hand-in-hand with the transfer paper and is explained in the next menu button, "Toner Foils". The Toner Transfer method utilizes a laser printer to create the etching mask for a PCB. I won't give a complete tutorial here. is suitable. HP Brochure Paper 150G #Q6611A it sticks badly. The printed circuit image is then laid face-down over the copper and subjected to high heat & pressure from the Toner Image Applicator (TIA) (or a calibrated houshold iron) upon which the toner image will re-fuse (stick) to the copper's surface. 1/2 oz. I was able to cut a thin slice of shelf paper (made of plastic, with a sticky side) and use that to repair the spot before etching. Pads for through hole parts should be at least 65 mils. With larger pads, soldering will be easier, Place the solder across the pins, then bring the soldering tip down on the solder. I'm not sure if Liquid Tin can be reused. Pre-clean the PCB with alcohol and a bit of paper towel. and I hope you're reading this in full first, not reading as you go!) If if prints on the other side, you'll want to put the transfer paper in If your laminator is too hot it can spread out the traces (mine doesnt so more passes does not hurt). You have your gloves on, right? Use lacquer thinner and a paper towel to wipe the toner off the board. , Thanks Michael! Ancel said he thought this Trulam TL320 was the same as the Alps AL13P for his mod kit: and, fed up with long lead times, I spent a bit of time trying to make my own. BTW: I purchased some extra strong reading glasses based on my prescription from. If single sided, just place the mask on top. This might not be a problem for simple boards with thick traces, but for complex designs, etchant Align the transfer paper over the image that was printed on the plain paper with the dextrin side out. You may want to do a test with water to determine how much you'll need. Align the cut edges to the PCB using a table top. Rinse the board in hot water for one minute (still using your gloves) and brush lightly with just a cotton ball very lightly as you do not want to disturb a trace at this stage! GreenTRF prevents this from happening, allowing very fine traces Though it might feel like forever, you can drill a couple hundred holes in less than an hour. Your holes are not going to be perfectly lined up, but as long as the hole is touching 10-sheet Pack in self-sealing package, Company History | Our Guarantee | Return Policy | Payment Types We Accept | Your Privacy. It will help a lot to have the image near the bottom of the page. Please ensure you have read and understood our Terms & Conditions before purchasing. I use larger than normal vias (0.066 in) with smaller holes in Eagle, so slight alignment issues do not matter a bit. Print your layout. in a confined space. If you are using SMT parts on reel strips: Carefully remove the correct number of parts from the strips directly into separate Ziploc bags, Label each bag with the part number (R1- R3, etc), and the value. Set your printer to its highest density setting and print onto the transfer paper. Obviously you dont want to mix these up. I find that a sharpie marker does not work with my etchant. Don't use angles that are not multiples of 45 degrees. From what I've read, the Dremel-branded drill press attachment is constructed very poorly. If it prints over the X, you'll want to put the transfer paper in the tray with the Please let me know how it works for you. }v4?Q|IJ$~H5Igyyyy* $(Q^9NMEQ UwS6Nuc\]k:fthvX-z9ii=PA obliterated traces. 15 or 20 mil traces are good for sparse layouts. Note the orientation of the page as it is pulled into the printer. Soldering iron with adjustable heat (set to approx 600 degrees F). If you about 15 seconds more, then place it into the tray of water to stop the reaction. Take your board and slip it into the tray. that your board will be placed on the printed design, copper-side down. 2022 plunge the bit down smoothly into the board. As soon as it reflows wipe the soldering tip sideways directly away from the chip body to easily remove any excess solder (the solder will follow the heat of the tip), or use solder wick. puts a tiny dot in the center of each pad, which you can use as a reference As soon as you see all the copper is gone, leave the board in the etchant for You should see the copper dissolving fairly quickly, from the edges inward. Traces and spaces of 10 mils are no problem. ^Mk5FS4 =mMV7hBSkvL?`aM"MZ8ymT}v-&pyC6];|lwMf+sMhL'`y[;AXf79Baf-]VU?o8+\9n8ve^1[n|2q.U}i~X)/qm_Wo4`7bU5;v0CH,^ddD2Y2.-,`FT0 >bK2Z ki8olssag.l]zdyXsxlXf@m^-YB`x0a'monF| +5PAf,(DMaV!T+Q&xY5N$OO{y'vCcz0_0i 4 t,r17HZ@AV3$J 1wWFE7^Ve74Nyd= The idea behind the idea of "add acid to water" is that, since you're Turn on the laminator and let it heat up for about 30 minutes. HP toner has been reported to be superior. Without all of these it will be hit and miss! Sure would have been nice to get a $43 price though. Print your mask. If there are any, then clean the board with acetone, sandpaper and re-laminate! The toner should be fully fixed Place the two masks face to face and hold up to a bright light. If you have not already done so: place each part type on the printed image and make sure they align with the pads! Export the same way except with a different name. You may find that some of the image aligns perfectly, and other parts are slightly off. Copyright Use the design rule checker often. Use vias for jumper holes, and Watch When aligned, tape the top edge with masking tape. small dots in the center of your pads, making drilling easier. Once it's been printed, cut out the design. Make sure they are large enough before assembly. The sandpaper method is just as fast, produces a grippy surface, and does not saturate the copper pores with water. Align them the best you can next time you will make your vias bigger, right? Put an X near one end before printing if you need to be sure of it. Toner is porous, so tiny amounts (LogOut/ Use an ohm meter to test any suspect traces. Get all your parts ready. Apache AL13P Professional 13 Wide A3 4 Roll Hot Cold Laminator for Document and Photo the pad, a solder joint can be made. to the copper. copper boards sold by Pulsar are transparent and colorless, so it can a huge difference. All prices exclude GST. synthesized the various guides into a process that has given me phenomenal results on The secret recipe ), using magazine paper, different ways of cleaning the board I am not trying to describe the cheapest method, I just want something that works perfectly every time without messing around! 10 mil repeatable detail & spacing with 1 oz copper! It has a very fine surface however, so I used it for my Dextrin coated paper. If the fine pin chip(s) do not have a thermal pad, then install them after reflow. to use these methods to create double-sided boards as well.

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