repair hole in chipboard floor

In thinkbaby thinkster blue by

Visit the Official SKODA Website. A few days ago I noticed that a small patch of the bathroom floor, 6" x 9" ,next to the bath was beginning to move up and down a little. Once I am happy that I can fit these boards together squarely and straight and nothing needs adjusting I will mark the positions of the joists with a marker pen, slide the floor boards back out of the way temporarily, glue the joists and then replace the first two rows. Put one screw in the first row at each joist and then ensure the second row is tight against it before putting one screw at the point of each joist too. Joists are rarely seasoned as they used to be in the good old days. Just for good measure you could put a couple of braces across between the joist for the new boards to lie on. Fix bearer battens to the joists, extending suffiently east to connect with the middle of the undamaged "C" section and to fit a joist cross brace at the East and west joints of the new and undamaged old board. Always remember anyone can post on the MSE forums, so it can be very different from our opinion. Using a combination of wedges against the wall and a large length of timber to strike against the boards edge (avoid hitting the tongue or groove directly with a hammer) I will manoeuvre the boards until I am happy with them. Having just read your later post about the leak - I suggest you take the floor up and replace anyway - you can check the joists aren't quietly rotting away at the same time! Continue to lay chipboard flooring across the joists for the rest of the floor, ensuring the joints along the 600mm edges are staggered - always avoid joining on the same joist wherever possible, Joists: Your sub-floor joists should be at 400mm centres meaning the edge of the boards always falls on a joist too, Mass screw the boards down: Once I have laid 3-4 rows and depending on the time it has taken (glue will go off in 30 minutes depending on temperature) I will stop laying boars for a moment, sweep the floor off and use the chalk line to mark lines onto the flooring representing where the joists are. Those black supascrews (wide thread) are good (easy) and don't rust, ditto solid brass ones (not just brass coated). hang over bath to dry)? ! I'm going to replace the chipboards on my landing as they are a complete mess after being taken up twice and a bodge repair by the previous owner. The spare board is standard flooring, 18mm deep, which is the same as the damaged bit. It's shocking how much they save money these days. I'm afraid I can't agree with your thought that the boards were set too close (if I read you correctly) as you can't leave gaps in tongue and groove chipboard or over joists so airflow has to come from somewhere else IMO. Marketplace - Please use the new template for selling your car. Re its getting wet, do you pick up the bath mat after use (e.g. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. When I removed what I thought to be the broken section in its entirety, I found to my horror a separate piece corresponding to the bottom surface had already parted company with the bit bearing the top surface (Carpet side) and had obviously been laying on the top of the plasterboard ceiling below, together with wood shavings debris. As to repair/replacement I dont want to have to remove the board as it runs parallel to and under the bath and into the next room, which at the very least will mean removing the bath. Drilling holes is a great idea, that will be a lot simpler. After cutting a flap in the glued-down carpeting, pulled it back to reveal a series of cracks clean through the chipoard, radiating in a star pattern from one point. The piece that de-laminated from the underside of the board was bigger than the extent of the damage on the top, by about an inch or so all round. As a general set-up I will try to have a pile of floor boards all facing the exact same way so I don't need to think too much about which way to start marking the board as I go through, and I am less likely to cut from the wrong end. I think the only suitable flooring in a bathroom or toilet is tiles or good quality lino. expected. BRISKODA are not directly responsible for information which maybe posted in this forum. Chipboard floorboards are inexpensive, strong, hard wearing, able to handle high traffic loads, water resistant and suitable for just about any final floor coverings to be laid on top (tiles/carpets/laminates etc. You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you. The floor as originally laid had a "hump" at the location of the break and, I think, subsequent building settlement emphasised the raised portion. I lay chipboard flooring boards down dry initially for two rows before fixing anything: First off I lay the first row down dry and cut the last board in to length. And, yes the bath matt is hung over the side of the bath when not in use. On old houses, there was an airbrick set in to air the underfloor cavity area, so important to try to keep air movement going another way in modern houses and enclosed bathrooms (e.g. for big holes u should noggin joists and replace panels. The off-cut from this board can then be used to start the second row which I will also lay down before having fixed anything in place. This info does not constitute financial advice, always do your own research on top to ensure it's right for your specific circumstances and remember we focus on rates not service. Joists can be tricky to walk on. Load a few piles of boards out at various points as well so as you are laying you don't need to move too far to get the next board. Cheap and short term :(. A paint-on waterproof sealant might help if it's properly dry and only bog standard chipboard, incidentally, though it does mean, as said, that water will just go somewhere else Tsk! It just so happens that the break sits on this raised portion as well as being the prime landing point for feet coming out of the bath -double whammy ! Chipboard can be quite fragile (but water resistant, usually green, is fine for a bathroom). 'Joists' sat across the concrete beams which are the structural floor of the building, afaik. can all be installed over chipboard) which makes them extremely versatile in many applications. Carpet in a bathroom is always a bad idea, Laminate flooring even worse. FORUM RULES, Post These are carpetted areas as well so its not the fault of laminate flooring. So they don't use real floor boards in houses these days when building them? Anyway the recovered bits of chip board didn't show any evidence of fungus/mold attack. I think I would do it that way. Unfortunately, that hasnt stopped it from being used. If you don't want to replace or board over as suggested, the only solution is to cut the damage out and replace (make a template to get a good fit or use a holesaw if area is small enough) and screw battens/boards underneath and across the damaged area/to side of joists as required, screw the 'patch' down to these. Hopefully, gross cost of repair will be next to nothing. I also discovered when changing the bath that someone had literally bashed a hole in the floor under the bath when plumbing in the shower so I ended up putting the bath on two nice hefty planks and bracing the damaged floorboard and planks with a dirty great piece of angle iron - the nearest joice was the other side of the wall so I couldn't cut out the damaged bit there was nothing to sit a new piece on. But if you feel the undamaged particle board will remain in good condition, you would only have to tear out the areas that need replacing. The groove joint is often a weak point - they are supposed to be fully glued on installation but many people don't bother. by ChrisTheParrot Sat May 30, 2020 11:37 am, Post I wonder if, there is a proper way of "Tanking" a fitted bath installation to capture leaks round the bath edge, e.g a polypropalene membrane or bitumen ? The existing arrangement has lasted 20 years and the planned replacement, with a coat of varnish, will be a little more durable - it will out do my period of tenure here ! Are you saying you have chipboard floorboards in the bathroom? Please note the following important links Terms of Use. You are using an out of date browser. Again, me not know so will happily stand corrected. I'd perhaps worry a little bit about replacing such a small area with chipboard, even if screwed in all round, though you mention a cross-brace, so hopefully it'll be supported under. Only thing is that that the floorboards are centre tongued whereas the chipboard is tongued on the lower edge - Oh err missus ! I have over boarded with 12mm ply before which makes things stronger and a suitable substrate to tile on. SAFETY FIRST | Forgot to say, joists centres are 14" apart. Replace the damaged section then screw at staggered intervals along the join. Eh ? Powered by Invision Community. Welcome to BRISKODA. Or you could cut out to the nearest joists then add some extra timbers to the joists for the new board to sit on and cut a new piece of board to fit the hole. If the room is being carpeted and the walls are plastered, click here to see how I install skirting boards like a pro! I know but if you were going to do it with chipboard, what would you do? The easterly side will extend well under the bath. Obviously, this is something that might not have happened if sufficient expansion gap had been left or if floor boards were fitted as these would have a greater range of flex before failure ! Also, the edges around the bottom side de-lamination were not dirty, suggesting that these were the last to break and that the centre of the damaged area delaminated first. Are you a trade or supplier? All trademarks and copyrights remain property of their respective owners. How to Remove and Replace Rotten Particle Board Subflooring, How to Patch a Hole in a Wood Floor from a Furnace Grate, Installing Cement Backer Board on a Wood Subfloor Before Tiling, How to Install Pavers Over a Concrete Patio Without Mortar, Chelseas Picks: 3 Paint Colors That Work for Any Accent Wall, This Side Up: Installing Insulation Correctly, Changing the Mortar Color on the Fireplace, Ask Danny | Ep. Then you'd need a crosswise joist - or two, as it's usually better to stagger cuts in floorboards. Just know from what I've found that previous peeps had done (What the) and trying best to learn what fixes such things. I can only think that this would happen if the board had been bowed upward, as the hump in the floor suggested. This will leave a reversed "C" section of the existing undamaged board north, south and east of the hole. Have any comments, questions or anything to add about how to lay chipboard flooring? Now starting at the beginning and with a pouch full of screws start filling the boards up. This progressively got worse, until this evening, when it was nearly 1/2 inch down on the surrounding surface. I've been down to Wickes, they have a couple of ranges of tongued and groved floor boards (17 for 4), which if coated with a few coats of marine varnish, will probably do the job. What's your position on the horseless carraige vs. the horse and buggy, BTW? JavaScript is disabled. Sign up for a new account in our community. His extensive hands-on experience and understanding of the industry make him the go-to source for all things having to do with the home from advice on simple repairs, to complete remodels, to helping homeowners prepare their homes for extreme weather and seasons. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. This'd allow you to cut the existing chipboard by the skirting board, and then lay the new chipboard on the noggins, as well as the joists. If not, an alternative might be to get an offcut of marine plyboard if poss or even just build up the depth with a small ply (e.g. 4: The Drywall Guru Offers Expert Advice, Under-Cabinet Lighting Made Easy with EcoSmart Tape Lighting, Ask Danny | Ep. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. I think I will then renew the plastic bath edging topside, after having re-caulked it. I hope this is the right forum, if not let me know and I'll post elsewhere. We're not sure where the joists are, but can you get some noggins in place under the wall to support. With the Saturday shopping out of the way, I've had the opportunity to pull back the carpet and had a closer look at what's happened.

Sitemap 23