sed this on an old oak library t

In thinkbaby thinkster blue by

I used this on an old oak library table after stripping and got some really bad black stains to almost disappear. These observations can help, Suggestions from someone who lost her home to fire and experienced the staggering generosity of community, Use color and texture to create a pleasing connection between your house and garden, Want to donate or volunteer to aid victims of the storm? Stain soaks more deeply into the end grain. If you are going to use butcher block in a kitchen, it is best to get one made in a species of wood that has a natural color that you like. I'm not sure how easy it would be to seal it such that those compounds don't leach into food. Apply, let dry, repeat until it gets to be as dark as you want it to be. Or sand that and keep on sanding. Is anyone using this, and if so, what are your thoughts on it as a desktop? Maple is first choice for BB because of other properties--being close-grained and high Janka (hardness) rating. Kitchen Cabinet Color: Should You Paint or Stain? One of the corners of the block I got was pretty dinged up, but I used a 1/4 round over bit on a router and by the time I did both sides the ding was mostly gone, so while not great I decided not to worry about it. Shiny anything is a heck of a lot harder to keep up than matte. I think thatll be fine for the way I cook. Had counters made from it for many many years. Buy a new butcher block. I thought as long as you use a food safe sealer like Watco its ok? You have to get past the point of penetration. On the Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish, it says, "Safe for food contact, FDA compliant". Which means sanding them down to bare wood. Im just worried Ill mess up the nice rounded inside corners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1kJam889sg. Also, are you using it on an Uplift Desk? Fairly straight forward to apply, but takes some muscle to properly buff and cure. You cannot use a stained butcher block as a food prep surface. There is no finish approved by the FDA as being foodsafe. Shortcuts don't exist. However anywhere the extra was showed through the stain I dont know how to fix it. We also have the same maple on our island at home and it took me trying a couple of different finishes before I settled on the Watco. Held up beautifully. I tried mineral oil and hydrogen peroxide didnt work. Im interested because Im in the middle of doing my new maple counters at the lake with the Watco. I started with the bottom to make sure I liked it and to practice however, I accidentally dripped both extra stain and oil onto the front. I found this pic .. hope it helps. @daisychain01 the problem is not the Watco finish, it's that the OP used a stain on the butcher block. Looks good in our space. I would wait to order the butcher block. The other side was frankly a shit show. Don't get black stains from water sitting on it either. Keep butcher block counters and boards looking sharp as a knife and sanitized for safe food prep with this advice from a pro woodworker, Wondering whether to go for natural wood or a painted finish for your cabinets? Houzz Pro: One simple solution for contractors and design pros. Hole saws are obnoxious, go super slow, and use a sacrificial board on the backside to prevent splintering, and a portable drill press if you have one. Tung oil is a nut oil, so should never be used anywhere that someone with a nut allergy would touch. Please contact the mods for a custom vendor flair. Do you by chance know how the fix the stain problem? Im staining my butcher block counter tops with Minwax provincial oil-based stain and sealing them with Watco oil. Finished it with three coats of Tried & True Original Wood Finish which is a mix of polymerized linseed oil and beeswax. The tops have a lifetime warranty. seam directly through middle of walnut counter top/desk, Replacing 60Y old hardwood floor using the existing as guide reference. Also tried stripper but that just stained the butcher block as well. Im just scared to power sand it in the undermount sink cut out and ruin it. ETA: that the Watco Butcher Block Oil is essentially Tung oil with a solvent and from one of the sites Holly linked, it sounds like Tung Oil is food safe. At least that is what I was told. Or any other film forming coating. My previous desk was a bit deeper do I am getting used to that. I havent found any template or recommended measurement for leg placement front to back. (Dyes & sprayed on toners are use in industrial settings to get acceptable results.). The sander is too big to fit in the curves anyways. We try to keep identities out in the open here. That can be 1/4 deep. Youve probably discovered this but I found it took about four or five coats to get a really lustrous finish. It really depends on your comfort level with that. You'll have to sand it down or plane it. Monks were distracted by it. I figured it was enough to add stain over since it was the same color and oil was clear anyways. What were your offsets for the frame from the edge of the block? One side of the block had a fair amount of knots, but it was the nicer side that was planed smoother. You'll have to remove whatever you've put on them already, or nothing will stick to them, or you'll get fish eyes. Doesn't accept stain evenly, goes blotchy and generally looks like crap. I think staining would be okay and just oiling is all you need, and reoil so my only concern would be with staining is that if somethingif it gets marked a light sand and reoil. Edit: sorry, not as a standing desk though; realized what sub I was commenting in. I ended up using my giant #8 jointer bench plane to flatten it down more, but thats mostly because Im literally incapable of leaving stuff alone and had the tools to do it. Woods stains absorb into wood. Other than paying a professional to do it for you. Chemical dyes and pigments arent going to respond to acid bleaching, and it will weaken the fibers. It was poorly planed and had some gouges that were large enough that I genuinely could have done an epoxy pour on them if I was a man with absolutely zero taste, and the glue up was genuinely awful. Watco has just a bit of varnish in it, not so much that you'd notice after a coat or two, but after several, it's starting to build up a bit of a varnish surface. They make a powder that contains oxalic acid, not terribly toxic (do wear gloves though). would you stain butcher block or leave natural. The one thing you can use to stain butcher block is concentrate of black tea. Then, I guess Ill make sure to have cutting boards for any food prep I do, which I was planning on anyways so the counter didnt get too scratched. You dont stain butcher block. Gently rub on mineral oil when completely dry. Food contact safe just means you can lay bread on the counter to make a sandwich. You probably don't really want to stain it, especially with Minwax. No, using it on a regular type of desk. So, just curious, once you get the stain out of the edges, what's the plan? The acetone didnt work but maybe I didnt leave it on long enough Im not sure. For finishing surfaces smoothly, use a super fine sandpaper with 360- to 600-grit. ), Press J to jump to the feed. Edit 2: I am drinking and not answering your question. Dissolve in water, wet the surface and wait. And no DY project turns out well unless you are willing to invest the time and effort to do it properly. Had I known what I know now I would have just paid more for a butcher block I liked the color of instead of trying to save money by staining it, a lesson learned i guess. You dont want bits of finish in your food. If it is a food prep surface, as in you are going to treat it as a real butcher block cutting surface, you dont want any finish whatsoever getting on to the knife or in your food. Im thinking about drilling some grommets into it. Stain has soaked into the end grain of your countertop. Good to know. The Good Space is a locally owned small business that uses birch butcher block wood for tops (wood is sourced from Michigan). Here's a video on refinishing butcher block. Mineral oil and beeswax, or blends of the two, are the obvious choices. Uplift and the other companies tops are ridiculously overpriced, if you want a high quality top go to a cabinet shop. I purchased one and have one more coat of poly to go before Im done, so tomorrow I plan to build. identify wood flooring- red or white oak? Any idea on how to get the strong smell from Watco Butcher Block Oil to go away??? Competely bare wood. Yea, Ill stain the top and put on the Watco. Here are groups assisting with disaster relief and recovery, Here are ways to donate to help victims of the Northern and Southern California fires, Ignore the instinct to go with white. Do as Joseph suggested--try acetone or lacquer thinner to remove the stain. Food safe contact and food prep safe are two different things. Too late to turn back now. I already finished another piece of butcher block for the other side of the kitchen so I kind of have to keep going. It isnt food safe. Maybe in another couple of years Ill redo it with something better if it turns out a complete disaster. Had to drill eight holes for the #10 wood screws to mount the top to my Uplift, which wasnt a big deal and seems secure. I know Im a little late to this but I used a Sparrow Peak rubberwood butcher block I got from Lowes on my new Uplift and have some thoughts. Fine woodworking has some suggestions:https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes, Thoughts from Green Home Guide:https://www.greenhomeguide.com/know-how/article/can-i-safely-seal-and-waterproof-my-butcher-block-countertops, A blogger's painful tale of what worked - and what didn't. These colors can show your house in the best possible light, Ancient palaces sported it. Are you going to try staining the top like the bottom? Thank you so much for all the help. I could have taken it back to Lowes for an exchange, but honestly I think its going to be a gamble on if you can get a good one that isnt torn up during shipping. Again sorry. You can eat mineral oil. The frustrating part is that a couple of the knots had some wood filler in them, and while not super obvious it bothers me. Mix it up more concentrated than usual because of the vertical surface. Also, did you use a wipe on poly, as they suggest, or did you seal it a different way? GD is correct about the solution now. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in-Espresso/5001792765. There was also a small ding on one of the surfaces, but again, I decided not to worry about it, it would be similar sized to dropping a Hydro Flask onto the desk top. I havent drilled grommet holes yet, but I will eventually. Do not seal butcher block wood has an enzyme that kills bacteria and when you seal it that does not work. I have to sleep with windows open after piling my butcher block counters! ci-lantro, I believe European beech is harder and more closely grained than maple. If you stain it, or use any other treatment, you can not use it as a food prep surface. Much less end up with residue from it in your chopped onion. You cant eat tung oil varnish. Then you can polyurethane them, but you can't cut on them afterwards. Will Butcher Block island look good in my new kitchen or not? The ONLY food safe treatment for a butcher block that will be used as s food prep surface is plain mineral oil. Im a woodworker and have glued up butcher blocks before, but honestly its a giant pain in the ass and I didnt have time for yet another project. Or, saw off that part with a rail saw. How do I remove leftover vinyl adhesive from a table? Did you drill any holes into or through it? Or more. I cant start over with new butcher block because I already had this one custom cut and dont have the $. On edge mistake stain absorbed drips, use high grade sand down to sand out the stain area. (Corporate Social Media Managers are also welcome! But, overran I am pleased with the purchase. Once end grain wood has absorbed a wood stain, its not coming out without a power planer. And, FWIW, your butcher block is maple; maple is notorious for being difficult to stain. The stain is not food-safe (and the use of Watco does not create an adequate barrier to make it so). Yes, I actually just put a 6 ft and 4 ft together. The first two photos are what it looks like stained over the last is what the stripper looked like. But today's stained glass designs may be more glorious than ever, See how a designer can turn your decorating and remodeling visions into reality, and how to collaborate best for a positive experience, Learn about durability, looks, cost and more for wooden cabinet finishes to make the right choice for your kitchen, Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers, Outdoor Lighting & Audio/Visual Specialists, https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/08/01/food-safe-finishes, https://www.greenhomeguide.com/know-how/article/can-i-safely-seal-and-waterproof-my-butcher-block-countertops, https://www.northstory.ca/adventures-in-staining-butcher-block-what-worked-and-what-did-not/, https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/food-safe-finishes, https://waterlox.com/waterlox-countertops, How to Clean and Care for Your Butcher Block, Pros and Cons: Painted vs. Stained Kitchen Cabinets, 9 Real Ways You Can Help After a House Fire, How to Make Your Painted or Stained House Feel at Home in the Landscape, Fall 2018 California Wildfires: How You Can Help, Crowd-Pleasing Paint Colors for Staging Your Home, Flying Colors: Stained Glass Through the Ages to Today, 3 Reasons You Might Want a Designer's Help. Ive only had it a short time, but so far I think its been nice. Behlen's Salad Bowl finish is safe for eating surfaces, by extrapolation, for prep surfaces. Here are a few links on the topic that might help. Ive sanded these areas to where you could barley see them but they would not sand out completely. Does this not mean that it is approved for food contact or are they playing with word usage? tl;dr: Id buy it again but you get what you pay for. See the pinned post for helpful resources and more information. Or bits of finish and stain. Try acetone or lacquer thinner please. Or plane it. The tops are clear coated and have no glare. Black water stains are associated with wood tannins, and are able to be bleached with a carefully applied acidic solution. Im the opposite in that I love the warm amber/gold colour of the maple with just the Watco on it. Mineral oil USP is a pharmacy grade that can be taken internally. You need a hotter solvent than mineral spirits to remove the stain. Honestly, if it were me and I wanted a dark butcher block countertop - I'd just replace that with one in black walnut and hit it with one of the beeswax/mineral oil blends. With lots of links:https://www.northstory.ca/adventures-in-staining-butcher-block-what-worked-and-what-did-not/, Some options from Woodcraft:https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/food-safe-finishes, Waaterlox is pretty widely used:https://waterlox.com/waterlox-countertops.

Sitemap 20