electric smog pump used for crankcase evacuation

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I like it so far- 4 months. For leaks I just use an air compressor and soapy water. Manage Preferences - In addition, torque is not noted as the torque maximums were always dependent on when the engine was floored and the converter was flashed. My pump is the top right one. As significant was the fact that the pump completely eliminated the oil leaks that had previously plagued the car on the dyno. "For aggressive engine builds that feature long strokes, high cylinder pressures, or elevated rpm potential, an Evac Pump Kit is a great way to stop oil leaks and pick up a few extra horsepower. bracket in the quarter with 7.2s in the eighth-mile. This may be due in part to my file fit ring noobieness or the fact 8 giant pistons moving 4.5" at 6000 rpm are creating some very large crankcase pulsations. Idling Sudden Loss of Fuel Pressure No Start, The story of Grandpas 87 Turbo Buick (Full). Very cool - the catch canteen somehow looks a lot less improvised than it sounds. Hard starting issue, Chevy 350 small block with Edlebrock Performer Carb. I was getting a drop or 2 of oil out the front and rear seals, but it took care of that. ConclusionIt is apparent that both Butler Performance Evac Pump Kits are complete and well designed. Of course, there are downsides. Following a cool down, the Moroso Evac Pump Kit was installed, and the car was back on the dyno for testing. Electrical vacuum pumps are available and easy to install but can't pump enough volume to produce more than 2-3 inches of vacuum. When run on an eighth-mile track, the car is barely able to shift into Third gear before the eighth-mile marker lights are tripped. Who has converted Smog pump into vacuum pump? From the autoparts store I think the pump was well over 100 dollars. I think so. Adding new relays is a good job. Or did u just cut the wires ? I have 3 of these electric pumps from our vettes when we removed the AIR system and was just thinking maybe I could put them to good use.. sure would be nice to rig up and have a vacuum/pressure gauge to let me know where the crank case was throughout the operating range. Once installation was complete, both systems were dyno tested at RPM and then raced at Redline Raceway in Caddo Mills, Texas. Don't see another board for your problem? This page was generated at 07:55 PM. Interesting. .Pumps are not allowed. It also places more stress on the piston rings, thereby reducing their seal capabilities and increasing the chance of blow-by. In addition to solving the unsightly oil leaks, by reducing crankshaft pressure the intake manifold charge isn't contaminated with oil, and the additional ring seal consistently produces measurable horsepower gains. As expected, the short eighth-mile distance really didn't highlight the enhanced horsepower that the vacuum pump allows the engine to make, but more importantly, both units proved that they were the solution to stopping the oil leaks that would show up on the car at drag-racing venues. Looking at preferred brand/model and also belt driven vs electric. What I have seen is if you have restrictive mufflers a header evac system doesn't work as good. does anyone know how much vacuum is too much or what the ideal negative pressure in the crank case should be when under boost? Follow along as we install and test both the Butler Performance standard and Moroso-based Evac Pump Kits. "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." On the electric smog pump setups they don't pull much vacum. Other than the ability to stop the pesky oil leaks that plague high-performance engines, the vacuum pumps can and should be used as aids in prolonging piston-ring and cylinder-seal integrity as well as valuable diagnostic equipment. The choice of pumps comes down to the hobbyist's budget and goals. I decided this was the route I was gonna take, mainly because I got a pump for free. Anyone used the electric AIR pump as a vacuum pump for Crank case evac? Not legal in Stock Eliminator, last time I checked. About to put the money into one and looking for what works best for most of y'all. I''l be running mufflers since will see very occasional street use. With replacement pumps retailing for $99 and the Moroso Rebuild Kit running $105, both systems are relatively inexpensive to maintain." I run a Ford electric vacuum pump. Advertising - According to David Butler of Butler Performance, "For street vehicles that see routine highway miles or spirited weekend-driving duties, owners should definitely retain the factory PCV valve and standpipe with a breather element to reduce the chance of oil leaks if the use of a vacuum pump is not a viable option. At idle, the three-vane Moroso pump pulled 1/2 inch of vacuum. Header/collector systems work well on open-headered cars but generally only pull about 1-2 inches of vacuum from a race engine. The addition of a vacuum pump to remove the positive pressure in the crankcase and introduce a few inches of negative pressure (vacuum) can increase power production and improve the seal of the piston rings and all those places where oil used to leak. According to Butler, "By utilizing a dash-mounted vacuum gauge, the enthusiast can carefully monitor the condition of the engine's sealing abilities pass after pass. Not much, but enough to make me want to find a remedy. If the primary purpose of the pump is to stop any oil leaks, the standard kit will provide reliable service for years. especially if mounted so the fumes go into the motor. There are three common vacuum-pump methodologies on the market today; header/collector aspiration vacuum, electric vacuum pumps, and belt-drive vacuum pumps. From a reliability and cost-effectiveness standpoint, both pumps have very good service lives. Thinking of adding power with a new combination? If that weren't enough, high crankcase pressure also forces oil to evacuate through any seal it can breach. List of 71 original GM 3rd Gen Part Numbers!! Powered by a '71 455 with round-port H.O. Installation was completed by George Reaves, the owner of the '65 GTO test car at Real Performance Motorsports (RPM) in Lewisville, Texas. and 0.11 mph. I read on the web about turbo Buick guys using a electric smog pump as an evac pump. Installation can be accomplished in 1-2 hours with the hardest tasks being where to locate the breather tank and cutting the braided hoses to length. Has anyone used the AIR electric pumps as a boost initiated crank case evacuation pump in conjunction with with a catch can? You have to pry up on the bottom tangs to get it to pop off the aluminum housing. Life is short. Privacy Statement - Dyno TestingTesting of the '65 GTO was performed at Real Performance Motorsports in Lewisville, Texas. Whatever the case may be, I decided to use an electric vacuum pump to evac the crankcase. George Reaves' (of Whitewright, Texas) '65 GTO is a former "Pontiac Pavement Pounders" participant, and the same combination of parts routinely puts the GTO into the 11.1-second e.t. Even with just breathers, I would think those fumes should get pushed out the breathers. Did u remove the cylindrical object on the left with the spring (check valve) completely ? Do Not Sell My Personal Information -, By logging into your account, you agree to our. For all the power that they produce, a keen eye must be kept on efficiency as well. 2016+ 6th Generation Chevrolet Camaro Forums, 2016+ Camaro News, Sightings, Pictures, and General Discussion, 2010 - 2015 5th Generation Chevrolet Camaro Forums, 2010 - 2015 Camaro News, Sightings, Pictures, and Multimedia, 2010 - 2015 Camaro Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension, 2010 - 2015 Camaro Interior, Exterior, Paint & Body, Electronics/Car Audio, Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales, Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion, Regional Camaro and Firebird Enthusiast Forums, Project Frankenbird - spring 2015 - D1SC 383 Lt4, advice welcome! '94 Camaro Z-28, Black, 850hp, Blown 396, AFR LT1 LT4 190cc Street Eliminator CNC Heads and Intake. I did and that's how I know what my crankcase is doing. It will suck the boost pressure dry! I'm curious, is it a J/Y piece or did you buy it new? On a typical 500-horse engine, the modified Ford-style pump used in our standard kit generally creates 8-12 hp on an engine dyno while the Moroso pump gains 15-25 hp.". Is your car making a strange sound or won't start? Do Not Sell My Personal Information -, By logging into your account, you agree to our, Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi, Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1, Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor, Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich. Has anyone used the AIR electric pumps as a boost initiated crank case evacuation pump in conjunction with with a catch can? Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump? Drag Testing It will pull harder, especially under boost, and its cheaper and cleaner. At the conclusion of drag testing, the difference in e.t. As compared to the standard kit, the Moroso kit was able to pull out almost double the volume of pressurized crankcase gases, allowing even better ring seal and elevated horsepower numbers. Once again, the reduction of crankcase pressure kept any oil from escaping the engine. Although the firewall and valve covers were clean before the run, the pressure that built up in the engine pushed oil out of the dipstick tube, and it dripped onto the passenger-side header. At a maximum rpm of 6,000 in Third gear on the Turbo 400 transmission, the pump pulled 5 inches of vacuum, and the decreased pressure and more effective ring seal allowed horsepower to jump by almost 6. funny thing is , those pumps are the first thing us LT1 guys toss in the trash. I've run with a 355 at your HP level with only alve cover breathers and no problems. And old race trick> go to the bone yard and find an old smog pump that will fit. Due to electrical interference present in the ignition system, rpm was not recorded consistently across all pulls. check out the. Key Engine Parameters: air-inlet temperature (AIT). I have heard too much will pull the oil out of the main and rod bearings which I definately am not interested in doing. From what I've read about the exhaust evac you should be getting more vacuum at higher rpm's then at idle. I was figuring exhaust evac to do the work out of boost, and let the pump "ramp things up" in boost. Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Sounds like you may have come up with a newer version! Archive - The car was running on drag slicks, which pulls down the rear-wheel horsepower on a chassis dyno compared to street tires. I picked mine up for 15 dollars like I said so I don't think you can go wrong with one from the junkyard. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er. The following errors occurred with your submission. Drag testing was conducted at Redline Raceway in Caddo Mills, Texas. Some oil mist inside the engine is critical to ensure proper lubrication of the parts that don't have direct oil flow such as the wristpins. What wire are you running it off of. The pump has to be mounted so that it can be driven off of the crankshaft pulley, bringing into consideration packaging constraints that presently will not allow the factory GM air-conditioning units to remain unless custom brackets are fabricated. Im guessing it wont want to push through the check valve I have on my exhaust. I'll give you my take on them since Stock and Super Stock is limited to a collector probe vacuum evacuation system . The PCV/electric vacum deal looks interesting for a street driven car. Terms of Service - A little while back I started doing research on crankcase evac systems because boost pressure in my crankcase was causing me massive oil leaks out of every mating surface. The water and fuel should be driven out of the oil when the oil gets hot enough - right? I then applied a small amount of grease to the upper bushing hole in the can.

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