best concrete expansion joint filler

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Is there a good way to remove the dirt and the weeds growing in there? Just leave them the way they are. Any help would be great, thank you. What do you recommend? You should apply Sikaflex when the temperature is between 40F-100F. A situation I ran into is where the joint was wider than the largest diameter backer rod. So lets get started and seal your concrete expansion joint so its protected from the effects of weather! Hey Jeff, I just a new patio poured about 45 days ago (1215). Jeff, we did our driveway joints with the backer rods and the self leveling sealant as recommended. You can use foam backer rod Sherry to fill the depth. Hi. Using a colored sealant looks terrible on an aggregate driveway. This is upsetting me very much. Is it advisable to seal these as well, and to use backer rod + sealant to fill up the groove such that it is level with the remaining pad? I may need to remove some self-leveling caulk because I put sand in the gaps. Ive noticed several instances where control joints are simply left alone and the expansion joint is filled in with something like SikaFlex. Have you ever used it? Here is a tip. This post shares how to accomplish this task. Let me know how it goes this spring and what fixes they make. Suggestions? Accommodates continuous and cyclic movement. Let me know what you find out because Im curious myself. I will use your guide to do mine. Any recommendations on which should come first? Theyre normally very nice and helpful. Glad to help any time Wabi, thanks for coming by , Dear Sir, If youre in the same predicament, using an angle grinder with a standard cutting wheel or diamond blade is the way to go. I have approx. It helps prevent the backer rod from floating up, making unsightly humps. Thank you! One side is 6 in. I love all the tips, especially the simple yet useful ones like use an old wire hanger to piece the tube how many times have I raided the closet for a hanger to so just that. I need some work done on my balcony concrete. My question is, now that I have the black neoprene sealant down, is it fine to put the self leveling caulk on top of it? Sikaflex will be tack-free in 1 to 2 hours and fully cured in 3 to 5 days. This step is perhaps the most important one. ago and it was too expensive for me to do my old 75yr old drivewayso I know it would cost even more now. But I wouldnt fill up the control joint. 3) Yes use tape on both sides. Now I am looking at the control joints which of course have cracks in them. Would backer rod and sealant work or just replacing with wood be a better option? Otherwise, youll have a little hump that develops when you apply the sealant. I priced all this stuff out 4 yrs. If theres no room for backing rod, bond breaker tape must be used. I will let you know. I have been looking on the web for an easy to follow guide on properly fixing concrete joints. The crack filler is better than concrete as it will expand and contract with the weather. 6) I love-love-love using my new multitool for removal. Thanks. 2 x 4 wooden forms, expansion joints or plywood forms, Maybe they are all the same, really dont know. Great job with your information. Thanks Kat, I love DIY too. Thanks. The hardware stores carry the narrow widths. It may be used in expansion joints and well as normal joints up to 75mm in size. I want to cover the patio with slate tile and am wondering if expansion and contraction will be the much of a concern. One things for sure, I wouldnt backfill them with backer rod. Im not sure. To obtain a more textured and incognito appearance is it possible to sprinkle sand to the surface after caulking and if so how soon afterwards should this be done. They were pretty cool to me . Manthanks for such a description for beginners like us.. you are awesome that while going through your notes we wished that everyone could describe each single point for easy grasping to the one who readsits awesome hats off my friend. In my case it would bigger the better. Thanks for writing back so quick. The damaged sealant were removed and I am stuck now due to rain and cannot pour the new sealant. Make sure to read the label on the product that you decide to use. Any suggestions? Good question. The results, some of the sealant cured in a bead above the surface of the driveway. Whew, good to hear your contractor came back Jeff. Heres a BIG TIP: the diameter of the backer rod should be 1/8 inch larger than the width of your concrete expansion joint. When you figure out the products youll be using give the technical support lines a call. I have a basement which is below ground level 1 metre, my concrete slab and the masonry walls are waterproof but the water is coming up between expansion joint which is between masonry wall and concrete slab is there a product that can stop a tiny puddle of water surfacing on my concrete slab when I get heavy rains? You should give Sika a call and ask their technical support department. I purchased the same self leveling sealant but I am having an issue with finding backer rod that works. Makes sense to me. A good strong leaf blower will blow the sand out. Well, I went back today and realized that it is not the self leveling caulk I had requested. Was I supposed to use some kind of tool, like a putty knife, to level it? Jeff, Hope youre having a fantastic day . I do have cracks, and actually, all the driveways in my neighborhood are sinking slowly (no rebar used by home builder), Ive already poured a new proper 1/2 portion of it because my sink level had dropped so much. But they also will think twice about sending their kids over for fundraisers (which could be a good thing). You could also call Quikretes tech support line. Id have to do some research to see if black is offered in other brands. I have a weed problem as well and have been removing them from the cracks which leaves a little gap. You could also apply duck tape to either side of the joint so that any spillage wont get on the cement. Im not sure about the cure time for Sika Cement Fix. Although Jaycoflex M973 Polysulphide Joint Sealant has excellent adhesion to a variety of substrates, use of a primer is always advisable. As far as the dirt & weeds, you could spray the weeds with a weed killer or vinegar first. If anyone is interested heres the link to Trim-A-Slabs site. Very informative! Ive also had good luck with calling Sika for advice. A grinder is a bit of overkill I think. This would be a good option since the black would hide stains and whatnot. We couldnt get it to budge so I took a long thin knife and probed trying to find out why it wouldnt move and found several sections of 2 to 3 inches in width of what felt like concrete about half way up the board. There are a few areas where the foam backer or some other type of filler/sealer remains but it is mostly gone and not the seams have sandy dirt and grow grass and other weeds. LOL. I had it repair several times and I had it!! Please send an email reply. Good morning, Im looking for something along these lines to fill in the spaces of my flagstone patio. I can already envision it looking a lot better . I have an expansion joint where my garage ends and driveway begins (and I cant wait to follow your instructions to fix) and then I have another between the side of the driveway (concrete) and the RV pad (asphalt). It took hours and hours to dig out old expansion joint materials, weeds, dirt, etc. The problem is that the joint width is about 3 1/4!! The previous sealant was absolutely gone, with not a trace left. Is the same thing done in a garage as you are explaining for driveway fixings. Are the directions and sealant recommended the same for expansion joints surrounding a pool? Maybe a call to Sika will reveal a product thats better on inclines. This posting is great reading but I skipped to the end to send this question. Something didnt feel good about having a void under the backer rod, even if it was tight against the sides so I pulled it out and filled in the space with sand and leveled it out so the backer rod sat on the sand. You need initial traffic boost only. but it was worth it when it was time to pour. it is now lifting out of the joint along with sand. Im in the process of killing the grass. I just bought a house that has a 5,500 sq ft concrete driveway. To further force the sealant into the joint and complete the finish, run a spatula, of approximately the same width as the joint, wetted with soapy water, along the joint, depressing the sealant slightly and giving it a smooth, even finish. How do we break the concrete loose from the board so we can remove the board and replace it with a foam backer rod and self-leveling sealant? Will the Sikaflex adhere to the backer board or should I remove the backer board? Thanks. Without a concrete expansion joint, your sidewalk or driveway would crack. I have a long double wide driveway and spent most of yesterday digging weeds out of the joints. It looks fine after a week. I have been looking on the web for an easy to follow guide on properly fixing concrete joints. Allow the Concrete to cure for a minimum of 21 days, at 25oC. I have a problem with a group (6) of tiles coming off because of contraction. Youll have to buy a large caulking gun but this will save you a ton of time. My daughters home in North Carolina is three years old. Before you do anything give Sikas technical service department a call and ask them for their opinion. Do you have any suggestions what to use to block these small openings before applying more Sika? After the backing strip has been inserted the joint should have a depth equal to its width (if the joints are greater than 15mm wide, the depth should be half the width). The angle grinder cutting wheel had to penetrate about 1/2 to 1 inch down through the sealant layers. Some are normal size some have grown wider and deeper. The joint in my driveway varies and is over an inch. Just make sure that your joints can accept SikaFlex Self-Leveling sealant based on the directions. I would like to first use Styrofoam material to fill in the gaps kind of like backer rod material but Styrofoam. Always feel free to ask any question or add your own tips!! Do you answer directly? Doesnt take much for the self-leveling sealant to run to one end (and no, taping the end doesnt solve this.) Driveways and sidewalks can be super expensive to repair. You want that backer rod tight against the house and pad, that way you wont be using excess sealant. He said it was probably nothing more than moisture getting in, freezing, and causing it to heave. He said he will be out this spring to resolve the issue with some sealant. If that gap is super wide you can combine two pieces of backer rod together. Id wait until the caulking is tacky so that the sand will stay on the surface. Every neighbor. Thanks. Darn workmanship, it can be good or bad. I have one joint that is wide, so my contractor twisted the backer rod as you explained, but there is one problem. Im a kind of person who wants to learn with any opportunity I have, and to learn especially on construction fields every single day. First of all, I would like to thank you for posting this valuable resource. My old one would heave as the temps became frigid in the winter. I am excited to check out some of the other info here as I have tons of projects to do. Use a hand-operated grinding disc or similar equipment to remove paint, concrete and foam waterproofing strips from the joints. The rebar is visible at about 1.5 inches down. I called the contractor and had him come out and inspect the expansion joint. Thanks! Is that determined by the width of the joint? Or should I just use the backer rod and leave the space empty below it? Ive read about the width between the slabs, but Im wondering about the depth? You have so many good tips. For a while now, Ive had a small gap between my foundation and the driveway. Will it simply run down the expansion joint to the street? We do have the room to do so in the joint. This will stop water or ice from penetrating the concrete. Get the right color. Our joints are over an inch as well. My neighbor poured his right away. Could I fill deep gaps with course sand/fine rock then use backer rod and self leveling caulk on top? That seemed to be fine, but he also suggested a black neoprene sealant that I believe was designed for asphalt. And if these products can help us homeowners save money and time then they are well worth the money. Thanks Brian, thats a great tip. That said, youd have to remove all the old filler to ensure the SikaFlex would stick to the joints. You mention having a coating of 1/4 1/2 thick over the backer rod. The foam was hardened and very brittle. Is this a viable solution or will it deteriorate over time? Fingers crossed for the long term. Joints must always be dry before priming and sealing. Let me know if you have any questions. Well, this is how I feel sometimes with my daughters (is it bad if I view myself as an expansion joint that buffers arguments about clothes, food, and hair?). Ill give it a try when it warms up (I live in MN). Please let me know what you find out since others might be thinking the same thing. Make sure to follow the directions on the Self-Leveling sealant . Search Trim-A-Slab on eBay for best deal. What if a day after using sikafelx SL I realize I need to apply another layer for a better leveling? further than the other. I believe you can get 3/4 inch wide backer rod. If you need to damn the sides of the joints you can use anything that makes sense, even clay or old wood will work fine. concrete pool patio expansion joints. Old caulk (almost tar looking?) Can you put a second layer of sealant over the first layer? Thanks Thom, it looks like a really cool product. There is a crack between the step and slab. Required fields are marked *. Just now getting all the weeds up and heading toward the phase of getting the dirt and old sealant (among other things) out of there. Find a neighbor and share the costs. It goes along with my question. Heres a Second BIG TIP: double-check the backer rod sits beneath the surface of the concrete pad. And I had a true hot mess because both sealants were pulling away from the concrete. The contractor installed rebar & cut expansion joints. How to get it? Hey Jeff! There is also a concrete crack filler at HD with a squeeze bottle that does fill cracks I think) but it may be too runny as well. I dont have much to spend so any cheap ideas will help. Thanks! Am I supposed to fill the contraction joint after ? The Amazon link for this blade is incorrect; it takes you to the cutter itself. I didnt drive on it for 5 days. Thanks. Mix together the entire contents of both cans, using a slow speed drill of sufficient power and a suitable mixing paddle. Oh man Jeff, yah that shouldnt be happening. Id think that would work and you could always test it out on a small section of the control joint (like 12 inches). When it does, there will be bubbles that look like grey acne in the job and sections will sink and look quite ugly. There are channels (maybe called sore joints, definitely not expansion joints) that have cracks in them (both directions, up/down and across). Measure the width and length of all the spaces you need to fill and purchase several sizes of backer rod. Do I need to fill that hole before I fix the seal? In some parts, there are some large deep gaps developing. Will this stuff work, if not do you have any other suggestions? Or is it better just to seal the actual crack itself and leave the groove profile intact? I have a garage floor that has a cross through it and I assume it is a contraction joint. Jeff I have har line crakes in my Pattio do I need to use a grinder to apple sikaflex leveling sealant, Do you anyone that does this kind of work. Not large cracks. Tape will work as a dam on clean surfaces. I understand about the purpose of control jointsto crack where you want it to! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Do I just pull it out and use this sealant? Thank you! Wood too high &some concrete below wood, causing more heaving and damage to siding and garage wrap. Hope this helps a bit. Ill probably buy the smallest tube and give it a shot. Search for; Mertisos tips go viral. Can I fill the first 4 or so inches with sand, then backer rod on top of that, then finish off with Sika? Hi Jeff, Awesome post/tutorial. In case youre more into watching than reading heres a video showing you what to expect when using Sikaflex. Sorry to say theres not really anything thatll last for more than a few years. Hi Daryl, do you know if the builder used a product like SikaFlex? Hi Jeff, Wondering if you could or should put play sand in the joint before the backer rod. This product is supplied as a 500ml pack. You want the foam to be pretty tight against the sides of the expansion joint so that the SikaFlex wont ooze below it. Jeff, you are so helpful. Allow the sealant to fill the joint to within 1mm of the top. I was going to ask my neighbor about the idea of the control jointshe is the chief PA Dot bridge engineer for W. PA and he works with this sort of stuff on a big scale. Hi Jeff. The best way to fill concrete expansion joint is to fill the space between concrete joints with a foam-backing strip and then use a self-leveling, flexible, 2 part polysulphide sealant. When I called Sika, the company that makes the self-leveling sealant for this kind of project, they told me to use a utility knife to remove old material and clean off any remaining residue with acetone. He did his driveway 5 years ago and it appears he did the control joints too. Since the sealant is very new, can I go back this spring and add more (theres room) and use a tool to level it? Have you ever used the Quikrete version of the self leveling sealant? Jeff, some important items missed. Fill the gun by pressing the base down on the opening of a plunger plate, in the way a standard grease gun is filled, or by simply using a spatula. Its great to meet the neighbors if they dont mind you continuing to work while you visit. Will this pose any problems in Michigan winters? Id fill the minor cracks with crack filler. For maximum economy of operation, the barrel should be approximately 320mm long. Jeff, this is nice of you sharing your experience with others. Its been about 28 hours now and I read somewhere that it needs 72 if we are planning to paint (we are not). And if concrete, should I fill the expansion joints first or the cracks? Its been about 4 years since I did the work and now it is weathering and showing gaps again. Ever here of this, will it work possibly? I love discovering new ideas and adding to my tool box of knowledge . I did mine in the fall and leaves galore found the wet sealant. Oops, heres a link with a picture of the product. Is it better to reinstall concrete or use poly foam ? Totally send me a picture. All loose dirt and concrete must be cleaned out of the joints with a soft brush. Thanks. Push the backer rod down into the joint with your hand. However, if its not this would be wonderful to let people know about since sometimes you only need a few feet. My intent is to share and not sound preachy: My garage control joints are about 5/8 and are not very deep at all. Apply M973 by hand or pressure operated closed barrel guns. I purchased my home in 1991. The base plate has damage and the cabinets on other side of wall have mold in the back. This is supposed to give the joint flexibility if reg backer rod cant be used. Im not sure exactly what a cutting wheel is. To control random cracking and handle expansion and contraction of a concrete slab due to temperature changes control or expansion joints are used. Contraction joints can be filled in same manner after coating or sealer applied is this last sentence saying filled contraction joint after the coating.

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